Name: junktown slaw
Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients: 6 napa cabbage leaves; 3 green onions; 1 handful cilantro; 1 lemon; 2 tbsp toasted sesame oil; ½ tsp salt; ½ tsp sugar (optional); ½ tsp red chili flakes

If you’re like me, you grew up believing there was only one cole slaw, the master recipe of which must have been shared verbatim among the franchise chefs slinging it onto styrofoam plates of fried chicken and mashed potatoes in every U.S. state.

Though I have a big sweet spot in my bitter heart for mayonnaise, it hasn’t touched my cabbage since sometime in the ‘90s. Instead, some lemon zest and a drizz of toasted sesame oil keep this slaw fresh and even more satisfying than the stuff you remember.

Yields4 Servings

6 napa cabbage leaves

3 green onions

1 handful cilantro

1 lemon

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

½ tsp salt

½ tsp sugar (optional)

½ tsp red chili flakes

Rinse the cabbage leaves, cut off the tougher ends (keep them for fermenting, if that's your thing), and slice the leaves into thin ribbons. Add to a big bowl.

Thinly slice the green onions and rough chop the cilantro. Throw them in with the cabbage. Zest the lemon and add about a teaspoon of zest to the bowl. Freeze the rest of the zest for something else.

In a small bowl, whisk together the sesame oil, salt, sugar if you're using it, and chili. Juice the lemon, add a couple teaspoons of juice to the bowl, and whisk that in, too.

Toss the dressing with the cabbage, onions, and cilantro in the bowl. Add salt and more lemon juice to taste.

Serve on tacos, by itself, or alongside fried chicken and mashed potatoes.

Ingredients